Looking for Answers about Magic Heat™ Reclaimer for Wood, Oil or Coal Stove - 6 in., Model# MH-6-R?

you need some knowledge of measuring and cutting stove pipe this would require tin snips, a measuring tape and possibly a crimping tool. You will also need a drill, and self tapping screws and possibly some wire (like used to hang ceiling tile track to secure the magic heat reclaimer to the joists). you need a power supply near the reclaimer so you may need to install an outlet or at the very least run a heavy duty extension cord plugged into an outlet that has constant power, (not one that can be shut off by a switch) and run it over near the reclaimer making sure it is secured well and not touching any part of the reclaimer or the heating unit or the flue pipe or any moving parts for that fact. you will also need your heating person to come over after you have installed the unit and perform an efficiency test to include adjusting your draft. It is helpful to have some handy man skills to install one of these or any reclaimers for that fact. Good luck.

The Magic heat Reclaimer does require a power source. The fan on the reclaimer operates on 110/120v. You need it plugged into an outlet that has constant power to it, not on an outlet that is operated by a switch.

One Magic heat Reclaimer per heating unit is more then sufficient. With more then one, it is possible that the first one closest to the heating unit will work properly and the others would never come on or more then likely the other reclaimers would short cycle, on/off- on /off- on/off .

the answer to your question is no the blower would not operate with out power. The magic heat reclaimer would be an expensive flue pipe adapter with out power to operate the fan it comes equipped with. The fan operates by a thermal disc. as the heating appliance runs and the stack pipe increases temperature, the disc closes the circuit and the fan comes on blowing the heat into the room/ usually the basement. Even after the heating unit shuts down the reclaimer fan may come on once or twice for shorter cycles. this is normal. You can run a heavy duty extension cord to the unit however make sure that it is secured well and not laying on any part of the flue pipe, the reclaimer or the heating appliance and is away from any moving parts. Also make sure it is plugged into an outlet that has constant power and not one that turns off by a switch. good luck.

You can install the Magic Heat closer to the stove than 24". I have mine about 12" from the output of the wood stove and it works fine. BUT, in this configuration you are more likely to overheat the unit (gets red) and that is not good. It's all how you build the fire and if your wood stove is not too big (emits too much heat), if so, then you not want to install one. WHAT I have found is, with the Magic Heat re-claimer, you don't need to build as large as a fire as you have in the past, as more heat is emitted and you can build smaller fires (ultimately using less wood per season too!). Not sure on your blower configuration, however, they can work together ok, just make sure the blower on the Magic heat blows the hot air in the same direction. AND make sure you are not blowing the hot air on or into the Magic Heat. The Magic Heat needs to run by itself and not be incorporated into any other system.

No, I have had this installed on my oil furnace at a 40 degree angle since 2008 with no problems and works just fine, I would definitely clean the bottom out occasionally though, as it will collect ash.

I believe it is 15 inches recommended. If you have a safe distance between the vertical stove pipe, you should be fine with this unit in place.

Pellet stoves burn in such an efficient manner that this product would not be effective.

In all honesty, not really. The porpose of the reclaimer is to dump heat from the stack pipe into the room where the boiler is located before it goes out the chimney serving two purposes, the first to reduce the amount of heat lose and second heat a space that would not have gotten heated in the first place (usually basement). I would not fabricate any type of duct work because the plate scraper handle would then be concealled in the ductwork. sorry but this unit wouldn't work well in your application for installation of an outside wood boiler.

If your flue pipe is 4 inch off the heating appliance you can increase your flue pipe to six inch into the reclaimer and reduce it back to four inch out to the chimney. The one thing you can't do for example is take a flue pipe of a larger size and reduce it to a smaller sized reclaimer (just an example: a nine inch flue pipe to a six inch reclaimer). Heating units are designed with specific flue sizes for different reasons. There are a few things to remember though. make sure you have a professional check the draft to ensure proper draft,your draft should be -.02 to -.04 in the flue between the barometric damper and the heating unit, and the other thing to remember is if your stack temperature is 300 degrees to 350 degrees ferenheit then you should not use any reclaimers if your oil unit is piped into a brick or block chimney. A stack temp of under 300 degrees in almost all ocassions creates condensation, I have seen in unlined chimneys, chimneys actually fall over because the condensation being created (because of the excessively low stack temp) and the chemicals in the flus gasses ate the mortar between the bricks/blocks. I have also seen a chimney get plugged up with ice from low stack temps. of 275 to 300 degrees ferenheit at the chimney. If you have a four inch stack/flue pipe it leads me to believe you have a high efficiency unit already. you might create new problems if your stack temp is around 300 to 350 dergees ferenheit with out a reclaimer installed. good luck.